Plated and Sated
December 15th, 2006 by Lola
How do you describe L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon? I’ve heard “exhilarating”… “precocious”… “deluxe”… even “sublime”. And they’re all true. As for me, I’d happily describe the new restaurant in the same way as Goldilocks: Just right.
The French gourmand chef, who launched same-named restaurants in Paris, Tokyo and Vegas, opened his much-fêted New York City location at the Four Seasons Hotel late this summer. I had the pleasure of taking in lunch this past Wednesday. From start to finish, it was a treat.
Former New York Times food critic and Gourmet editor-in-chief Ruth Reichel used to go to extremes to conceal her identity. Fortunately, I do not need a wig, fat suit or prosthetic unibrow to receive average-Jane treatment. Nonetheless, the staff at L’Atelier was attentive, nay enthusiastic, as I pored over the Francophone menu to construct my perfect meal.
Like most upper-crust restaurants L’Atelier has its own five- and eight-course chef’s menus that offer visitors the best of what’s around. Honestly, I suggest skipping this time-suck. The food coma is lovely, I’m sure, but the options on the à la carte menu are all so mouth-watering that it seems a shame to limit yourself to what Joël and his minions might suggest on any given day.
This particular Wednesday afternoon, I was met with a bubbling glass of champagne almost immediately after setting foot in the restaurant. I settled on the following tastings: La Crabe—slices of fresh avocado delicately piled over fresh crabmeat, La Jambon—thin strips of fresh prosciutto and salsiccia served with tomato bruschetta, and La Caille—dainty pieces of quail stuffed with foie gras. Other stand-outs included the much-noted Le Burger, a pair of gourmet sliders smothered with foie gras and caramelized peppers, and Robuchon’s signature La Langoustine, a fried lobster tail with basil pesto. All of this goes without mentioning the amuse bouche consisting of a foie gras, port wine reduction and parmesan foam parfait or the decadent Madeleine cookies served after the meal. In case you missed it, foie gras is a theme… just like elegance is a lifestyle choice.
Robuchon’s new restaurant is an experience for any foodie to savor and any amateur to learn from. I’m not sure if enough foodies are savoring it, given the less-than packed attendance on the Wednesday that I visited, but hardcore culinary connoisseurs with a wallet to match their high-end appetites will consider L’Atelier a must on their epicurean tasting tour of the city.